I have had considerable experience in model photography over the years. I have found the key to success in this discipline is good communication and knowing what you want from the image. As for the amount of direction – that really depends on the model’s experience.
The initial concept for any shoot comes from the Agency or Client. They will brief the photographer on the type of shots they require for their campaign. It is then a ‘team’ effort with all those involved, including make-up artist and stylist, if the budget runs to that, to resolve all the issues that will arise!